Engineered Wood Flooring Repair Guide

Fixing Scratches, Dents, and Loose Boards

Engineered wood flooring offers the timeless beauty of real wood with greater stability and durability. However, it’s not immune to damage from daily wear and tear. From minor scratches to a warped plank, this guide provides clear, step-by-step instructions to help you repair common issues with your engineered wood floor. By following these methods, you can restore its original look and extend its life. Always work with care and remember that engineered flooring has a thin real wood veneer, which means you must be gentle, especially when sanding.

Tools and Materials Checklist

Before you begin, gather the following tools and materials:

Wood putty or wood filler (in a colour that matches your flooring)
Wax filler sticks or an LVT repair kit
Putty knife or spatula
Fine-grit sandpaper (e.g., P120, P220)
Masking tape
Clean, soft cloths or rags
Wood floor cleaner (pH-neutral)
Appropriate finish (e.g., matching stain, polyurethane, or oil)
A pry bar or flat-bladed tool
Replacement engineered wood planks (if available)
Wood glue or high-quality flooring adhesive
A saw (e.g., a circular saw or an oscillating multi-tool)
Rubber mallet and tapping block
Vacuum cleaner and dustpan
Safety goggles and a dust mask

Step-by-Step Repair Instructions

Follow the instructions below based on the type of damage you need to repair.

Repairing Scratches and Scuffs

Clean the Area: Start by thoroughly cleaning the affected area to remove any dirt or grit. Use a vacuum with a brush attachment and a slightly damp cloth with a wood-specific cleaner. Ensure the area is completely dry before proceeding.
For Minor Scratches: A simple touch-up can often be enough. Use a wood repair pen or a wax filler stick that matches the colour of your floor. Gently rub the stick over the scratch until it’s filled, then buff with a soft cloth.
For Deeper Scratches or Gouges: For more significant damage, you will need a wood filler or putty. Apply the filler into the gouge using a putty knife, making sure to slightly overfill it. This accounts for shrinkage as the filler dries.
Sand and Finish: Once the filler is completely dry (check the manufacturer’s instructions), use fine-grit sandpaper to gently sand the area until it is smooth and flush with the rest of the floor. Always sand in the direction of the wood grain. Wipe away the dust and then apply a matching stain or finish to the repaired spot. Feather the edges to blend it with the surrounding floor.

Fixing Loose or Squeaky Boards

Locate the Problem: Walk across the floor to identify the exact location of the loose or squeaky board. Mark the edges of the board with masking tape.
Inject Adhesive (for loose planks): A common solution is to inject adhesive underneath the plank. You can find specialised repair kits that include a syringe and a fine drill bit. Drill a small, discreet hole in the loose area of the board and inject a high-quality wood floor adhesive through the hole.
Secure the Board: Once the adhesive is in place, wipe away any excess that may have seeped out. Place a heavy object, such as a stack of books or a heavy weight, on the board to hold it firmly in place while the adhesive cures. Leave it for at least 24 hours.
Finish Up: Once the adhesive is dry, remove the weight and fill the drilled hole with wood putty that matches your floor. Sand lightly and apply a touch of finish if necessary.

Replacing a Damaged Plank

If a board is severely damaged from water or deep gouges, a replacement may be the best option. This method is suitable for both “click-lock” and “glue-down” floors.

Cut and Remove the Damaged Plank: Use a circular saw or an oscillating multi-tool to carefully cut out the damaged section of the plank. Make two cuts lengthwise down the centre of the board and then a few cross-cuts. This allows you to remove the pieces without damaging the surrounding planks. Set the saw blade depth to avoid cutting into the subfloor.
Clean the Area: Once the pieces are removed, carefully scrape away any remaining wood or old adhesive from the subfloor and the edges of the surrounding boards. Vacuum the area thoroughly to ensure a clean, smooth surface for the new plank.
Prepare the New Plank: For most installations, you will need to remove the bottom groove of the new plank with a saw so it can be laid flat into the gap. This is a crucial step to ensure a good fit.
Install the New Plank: Apply a high-quality flooring adhesive to the subfloor and the tongues and grooves of the surrounding planks. Carefully lower the new board into the gap, interlocking the tongue and groove on one side, and then pressing it firmly down into the adhesive. Use a tapping block and a rubber mallet to gently tap it into place, ensuring a tight fit.
Set and Cure: Place heavy objects on the new plank to hold it down while the adhesive cures. Allow at least 24 hours before walking on it or replacing any furniture.

Troubleshooting and Prevention

Troubleshooting

Water Damage: For minor water damage, remove standing water immediately and use fans or dehumidifiers to dry the area. If planks have warped or buckled, they may need to be replaced. For severe damage, consult a professional.
Sanding and Refinishing: Engineered wood flooring has a limited number of times it can be sanded due to its thin veneer layer. If the damage is widespread and you are considering a full refinish, it is highly recommended to consult a professional to avoid damaging the floor beyond repair.

Prevention

Use Protective Pads: Place felt pads on the feet of all furniture to prevent scratches and dents.
Regular Cleaning: Use a broom, vacuum, or a microfibre mop to regularly remove dirt and grit, which can act as an abrasive and cause scratches.
Be Careful with Spills: Engineered wood is more resistant to moisture than solid wood, but it is not waterproof. Wipe up spills immediately to prevent water from seeping into the layers and causing warping.
Maintain Humidity: Keeping a stable humidity level in your home (ideally between 35-55%) can prevent planks from expanding, contracting, or gapping.