Installation Guide for Engineered Wood Flooring

This comprehensive guide will walk you through the process of installing engineered wood flooring, ensuring a professional and long-lasting finish. Engineered wood is a popular choice for its beautiful, authentic wood surface and stable, multi-layered construction. Proper preparation is essential for a successful installation, so please read these instructions carefully before you begin.

Pre-Installation Checklist

Tools & Materials

Engineered wood flooring planks
Tape measure
Pencil
Hand saw, circular saw, or jigsaw
Tapping block
Rubber mallet
Pull bar or pry bar
Expansion spacers (10-15mm)
Moisture meter
Underlay (if using the floating floor method)
Wood flooring adhesive (if using the glue-down method)
Safety goggles and knee pads
Broom and vacuum cleaner
Levelling compound and trowel (if required)

Site Preparation

Thorough preparation is the most critical step. Ignoring these details can lead to issues such as gaps, warping, or buckling after installation.

Acclimatise the Flooring: Place the unopened boxes of flooring flat in the room where they will be installed for at least 48 to 72 hours. This allows the wood to adjust to the room’s temperature and humidity. The ideal room temperature should be between 18°C and 24°C, with a relative humidity of 45-65%.
Clear the Room: Remove all furniture, skirting boards, and existing floor coverings such as carpet or old vinyl.
Prepare the Subfloor: The subfloor must be clean, dry, and level. Sweep and vacuum thoroughly to remove all dust and debris. Check the subfloor for unevenness with a long straight edge; there should be no more than a 3mm variation over a 1m run.
- For concrete floors: Check for moisture using a moisture meter. If the moisture content is too high, a damp-proof membrane or liquid damp-proof solution must be applied before installing the underlay. Use a self-levelling compound to correct any uneven areas.
- For wooden subfloors: Ensure all floorboards or plywood sheets are securely fastened and free from movement. Nail or screw down any loose areas. If required, lay a minimum of 6mm flooring-grade plywood over the existing floor, securing it every 150mm.
Choose an Installation Method: Engineered wood flooring can be installed using a floating, glue-down, or nail-down method.
- Floating: The most common method, where the planks are not fixed to the subfloor but are clicked or glued together. A suitable underlay is always required for this method.
- Glue-Down: The planks are fully bonded to the subfloor using a flexible wood adhesive. This method is often preferred for underfloor heating systems.
- Nail-Down: Typically only suitable for 20mm or thicker engineered flooring on a timber subfloor.
Plan the Layout: Decide on the direction of your planks. For the best aesthetic, it is generally recommended to lay the boards parallel to the longest wall or perpendicular to the main source of light (e.g., a window). This will make the room appear larger and help conceal seams.

Step-by-Step Installation Instructions

Install the Underlay: If you are using the floating floor method, roll out the appropriate underlay. Lay it at a 90-degree angle to the direction you will be laying the engineered wood planks. Trim the underlay to size with a utility knife and secure the seams with tape, ensuring there is no overlap.
Lay the First Row: Begin in a corner along the longest wall. Place the first plank with the groove side facing the wall. Use spacers to maintain a consistent 10-15mm expansion gap between the flooring and the wall. This gap is vital to allow the wood to expand and contract with changes in temperature and humidity.
Connect the Planks: Take the second plank and connect the short end to the first. Using a tapping block and a rubber mallet, gently tap the plank into place until the joint is tight and flush. Continue this process until the end of the first row.
Cut the Last Plank: At the end of the row, measure the remaining space, subtract the expansion gap (10-15mm), and mark the cut line on the plank. Use a saw to cut the plank to the correct length and fit it into place, ensuring the cut end is against the wall.
Start the Second Row: The offcut from the last plank of the first row (if it’s at least 300mm long) can be used to start the second row. This creates a staggered joint pattern, which is more stable and visually appealing.
Lay Subsequent Rows: Angle the second-row plank and click it into the long side of the first row. Gently tap it into place with the tapping block and mallet. Repeat this process, ensuring that the end joints of adjacent rows are staggered by at least 300mm.
Fit Planks Around Obstacles: For complex cuts around door frames or pipes, use a template or carefully measure and mark the plank. A jigsaw is ideal for making these precise cuts. Remember to leave an expansion gap around all fixed objects.
Install the Final Row: The final row will likely need to be cut lengthwise. Measure the gap between the last full row and the wall, subtract the expansion gap, and mark your planks. Cut them to the correct width and use a pull bar to fit them securely into place.

Post-Installation Tips & Troubleshooting

After Installation

Remove all spacers from around the perimeter of the room.
Install your skirting boards or beading, nailing them to the wall, not the floor. This covers the expansion gap and provides a clean, finished look.
Clean the floor with a suitable wood floor cleaner. Do not use excessive water.

Common Problems and Solutions

Gaps Appearing Between Planks: This is often caused by a failure to acclimatise the wood or an uneven subfloor. Ensure you have followed the preparation steps carefully. A pulling bar can be used to tighten gaps soon after installation.
Lifting or Buckling: This is a sign of insufficient expansion gaps around the perimeter. Check that you have left a 10-15mm gap around all walls and fixed objects. The floor may need to be lifted and re-cut to the correct size.
Squeaking or Clicking Sounds: This is almost always caused by an uneven subfloor. The planks are moving slightly as you walk on them. The subfloor must be perfectly flat before installation.
Planks are Difficult to Join: Ensure the planks are correctly aligned before tapping them together. Check for any debris in the click-lock mechanism. You may need to use more force with the rubber mallet and tapping block.