Installation Guide for LVT Flooring

This comprehensive guide will walk you through the process of installing Luxury Vinyl Tile (LVT) flooring. By following these step-by-step instructions, you can achieve a professional-looking, durable finish. Proper preparation is the most critical part of this project, so be sure to read all instructions carefully before you begin.

Pre-Installation Checklist

Tools & Materials

LVT planks or tiles (confirm if they are click or glue-down)
For Glue-Down: LVT-approved adhesive and a notched trowel (the trowel size is critical; check the adhesive manufacturer’s instructions).
For Click-Down: LVT-approved underlay (if not integrated with the flooring).
Tape measure
Utility knife with a supply of sharp blades
Pencil or marker
Long straight edge or spirit level
Rubber mallet or tapping block
Pull bar or pry bar
Spacers (5-10mm)
Jigsaw or handsaw for complex cuts
Knee pads
Safety goggles
Broom and vacuum cleaner
Levelling compound and trowel (if required)
Moisture meter (if required)
100 lb floor roller (essential for glue-down installations)
Clean cloths and mineral spirits or adhesive remover (for glue-down)

Site Preparation

Thorough preparation is the key to a long-lasting LVT floor. Do not skip these steps.

Acclimatise the Flooring: Place the unopened boxes of LVT flat in the room where they will be installed for at least 48 hours. This allows the material to adjust to the room’s temperature and humidity, preventing expansion or contraction after fitting. The ideal room temperature should be between 18°C and 26°C.
Clear the Room: Remove all furniture and existing floor coverings, such as carpet, old vinyl, or linoleum.
Prepare the Subfloor: The subfloor must be completely clean, dry, and level. Sweep and vacuum thoroughly to remove all dust and debris. Use a long straight edge to check for any unevenness. Any dips or humps greater than 2mm over a 1m run should be corrected.
- For concrete floors: Check for moisture using a moisture meter. If the relative humidity is above 75%, a moisture barrier or damp proof membrane should be applied. Use a self-levelling compound to create a perfectly flat surface. New concrete must be fully cured, which can take several months.
- For wooden floors: Ensure all floorboards are securely fastened and free from movement. Nail or screw down any loose boards. Cover with a minimum of 6mm flooring-grade plywood, securing every 150mm. Fill any gaps or joints with a suitable smoothing compound.
Plan the Layout: Before laying, perform a “dry run” by placing a few rows of planks to determine your starting point and laying pattern. This will help you avoid thin slivers of flooring at the end of a row and allow you to plan where cuts will be made. It’s often best to start from the longest, most visible wall and work towards the door.

Step-by-Step Installation Instructions

Choose your method: Click-Down or Glue-Down. The following instructions are tailored to each type of LVT.

Installation Instructions for Click-Down LVT

Install the Underlay (if needed): If your LVT does not have an integrated underlay, roll out the approved LVT underlay. Lay it at a 90-degree angle to the direction you will be laying the LVT planks. Use tape to secure the joins if required, following the manufacturer’s instructions.
Begin the First Row: Start in a corner, along the longest wall. Place the first plank with the tongue side facing the wall. Use spacers to maintain a consistent 5-10mm expansion gap between the flooring and the wall. This gap is essential to allow for natural movement of the flooring.
Connect the Planks: Take the second plank and connect the short end to the first plank. Angle and fold the plank down until it clicks into place. Ensure the joints are tight and flush.
Cut the Last Plank: When you reach the end of the first row, measure the remaining distance and subtract the expansion gap (5-10mm). Use a pencil and a straight edge to mark the cut line. Score the plank’s surface deeply with a utility knife and then snap it along the scored line. Place the cut end against the wall, maintaining the expansion gap.
Start the Second Row: Use the offcut from the last plank of the first row (if it’s at least 300mm long) to start the second row. This creates a staggered pattern. If the offcut is too short, cut a new plank in half to begin the row.
Lay Subsequent Rows: Angle the second-row plank and click it into the long side of the first row. Once the row is complete, use a pull bar and a tapping block to ensure all joins are snug and tight against the previous row. Repeat this process, staggering the joints by at least 150mm between rows for stability and appearance.

Installation Instructions for Glue-Down LVT

Apply the Adhesive: Working in small, manageable sections, use the notched trowel to spread the LVT-approved adhesive evenly over the subfloor. Hold the trowel at a 45-degree angle to ensure the correct amount of adhesive is applied. Crucially, follow the adhesive manufacturer’s instructions for ‘open time’ or ‘tack time.’ This is the period the adhesive needs to become tacky before you can lay the flooring.
Begin the First Row: Starting from your planned layout line, carefully place the first plank into the tacky adhesive. Press it firmly into place. Note: Unlike click LVT, you do not need an expansion gap for glue-down LVT, as it is fully bonded to the subfloor.
Connect the Planks: Place the second plank directly against the first, ensuring the edges are tight and flush. Press the plank firmly into the adhesive.
Cut the Last Plank: When you reach the end of the first row, measure the distance and mark the cut line. Score the plank’s surface with a utility knife and snap it. Place the cut end against the wall.
Start the Second Row: Use the offcut from the last plank (if it’s long enough) to start the next row, creating a staggered pattern.
Lay Subsequent Rows: Continue laying the planks into the adhesive, ensuring all edges are tight.
Roll the Floor: After each section of flooring is laid, use a 100 lb floor roller to apply even pressure across the planks. This is a critical step to ensure a full and secure bond with the adhesive and prevent air pockets. Roll in multiple directions.
Clean as You Go: Immediately wipe away any adhesive that seeps up through the joints with a clean cloth and the recommended cleaning solution (e.g., mineral spirits). Once cured, the adhesive will be difficult to remove.

Post-Installation Tips & Troubleshooting

After Installation

For Click-Down: Remove all spacers from around the room. Wait at least 24 hours before walking on the floor and 48 hours before placing heavy furniture. This allows the flooring to settle.
For Glue-Down: Avoid all foot traffic for at least 24-48 hours to allow the adhesive to cure fully. Wait longer for heavy furniture, as per the adhesive manufacturer’s instructions.
Install skirting boards or beading to cover the expansion gaps (for click-down) or to finish the room’s perimeter (for glue-down).

Common Problems and Solutions

Gaps Appearing Between Planks:
- Click-Down: Often caused by not allowing the flooring to acclimatise or by not maintaining the expansion gap.
- Glue-Down: Usually a sign of improper adhesive application or a subfloor that wasn’t prepared correctly.
Lifting or Peaking at Joints:
- Both: An uneven subfloor is the most common cause. Ensure the subfloor is perfectly level before you start.
- Glue-Down: Can also be caused by insufficient adhesive coverage or not using a floor roller to create a solid bond.
Clicking Sounds:
- Click-Down: If you hear a clicking sound when you walk on the floor, it’s a sign that the subfloor is not completely flat.
- Glue-Down: This problem is not typically associated with glue-down installations.
Difficulty Connecting Planks: This can happen if the planks are not properly aligned or if there is debris in the click mechanism (for click-down) or if the adhesive has dried too much (for glue-down).